Have you been thinking about purchasing or upgrading to LED Aquarium Lighting? Before LED lights became more intense, they were used only as aquarium moonlights, which allowed your to view your aquarium at night..

These LED moonlights weren’t intense enough to keep even soft corals, but with new technology LED aquarium lighting fixtures are more intense than T5, Metal Halide, Power Compact and VHO Lighting. This gives aquarium LED lighting a significant advantage over other types of fixtures.

LED Aquarium Lighting Advantages

LED aquarium lighting is a game changer for the saltwater aquarium hobby. It allows aquarists to keep a wide variety of soft, LPS and SPS corals without having to worry about giving them enough light. Another major advantage is you don’t have the high costs associated with bulb replacement. This is because each LED bulb can last up to 50,000+ hours. Aquarium LED Lighting is also more efficient than traditional lighting because it uses less power, but produces more intense light. As a result, less heat is created which eliminates the need for expensive aquarium chillers, which can cost over $750.00.

Buy LED Aquarium Lighting

If you are trying to determine if LED Aquarium Lighting is worth buying, then consider doing a little bit of math. Cost of LED Aquarium Fixture + Electricity is less than the Cost of Metal Halide/T5 Light Fixture + Replacement Bulbs + Chiller (~$750 if required) + Electricity. In most cases, saltwater aquarists are finding that if you have your reef aquarium for at least three years, it is worth the investment in LED Lights.

Technology is always changing and improving, but there are two types of LED aquarium lighting fixtures currently available. The most common fixtures contain multiple rows of LED strip lights. The image below of the Ecoxotic light fixture contains six rows of LED lights. This LED aquarium lighting fixture is suitable for saltwater aquariums up to 24″ long. So if you have a 75 gallon fish tank, you will need to fixtures. These fixtures mimic linear lighting similar to that of T5.

The second aquarium LED lighting fixture looks like a more traditional light bulb, but has several LEDs in a tightly packed spotlight. These LED light bulbs mimic metal halide point source lighting and are sometimes referred to as Japanese spotlights. Both of these LED aquarium lighting fixtures will create a brilliant shimmering effect and will enhance the colors of your corals.

Some aquarium LED lighting fixtures also have the option to create a dimming effect. This allows you to increase and decrease the intensity, which simulates the natural sunrise and sunset. You will also be able to dial in the exact color of the LED bulbs. This means that you won’t have to worry about selecting the right bulbs. Instead, you can adjust it to meet your needs. I hope you have enjoyed learning about LED Aquarium Lighting.

Here is a nice video that shows the comparison between Metal Halide and Ecoxotic LED aquarium lighting. Whenever you are ready purchase or research aquarium LED lighting be sure to visit several online fish supply retailers to compare prices. Sometimes you can find savings of 30-40% even between online dealers on even the most popular LED light fixtures.

Saltwater Aquarium Setup

1. Select a location for the aquarium. A Saltwater Fish Tank Setup should be located away from direct sunlight and loud noises. The floor should also support the weight of the aquarium. Water weighs approximately 8 pounds per gallon. If the aquarium is upstairs, consider what is below.

2. Level the aquarium stand.

3. If the saltwater aquarium is made from acrylic, place a foam board on top of the stand to help prevent pressure points that can lead to leaks.

4. Clean the saltwater fish tank with warm water to remove any dirt and dust. If the aquarium was used, clean with vinegar and warm water to remove any calcium deposits. Rinse until the vinegar odor is no longer present. Do not use soap or bleach.

5. Place the aquarium on the stand and level.

6. Fill the aquarium with tap water to check for any leaks.

7. If the aquarium uses an overflow, plumb the pipes to the Sump below. Use plenty of union valves to make the plumbing modular in case you move or need to make any changes.

8. Level the sump.

9. Fill the sump with tap water to check for any leaks.

10. Plumb the return line from the Return Pump in the sump back up to the aquarium. Install a ball valve to control the pump’s flow. Remember to use PVC primer and glue to reduce leaks.

11. Let the PVC glue cure and then test for any leaks by filling the drain with tap water.

12. Fill the return pump compartment with tap water and test for any leaks by turning on the return pump. Water should begin to move from the aquarium down to the sump and from the sump back up the aquarium.

13. After you have confirmed that there are no leaks, drain the tap water from the aquarium and sump.

14. Fill the aquarium and sump with Reverse Osmosis water. (You made need to Setup a Reverse Osmosis Unit prior to Setting Up the Saltwater Aquarium).

15. Turn on the return pump and water should begin to move from the aquarium down to the sump and from the sump back up the aquarium.

16. Make sure the return pipe nozzle is above the water line and then turn off the return pump. Determine if the sump has enough capacity to handle the overflow in the event of a power outage. If there is too much water, reduce the water level in the sump and repeat. Determine a maximum safe water level and mark it on the sump. Turn on the return pump.

17. Place your heater in the aquarium for 15 minutes to allow it to acclimate to the temperature. This will prevent the heater from cracking. Heat the water to approximately 78 degrees.

18. Add salt mix to the aquarium, approximately 2 cups per 5 gallons of water. This should create a specific gravity of approximately 1.020. Continue to mix the salt until it is completely dissolved. Wait a few hours and verify the reading with your Hydrometer or Refractometer. The typical reef aquarium maintains a specific gravity around 1.025 and the average fish only aquarium around 1.020. If the salinity is too high remove some water and replace with pure Reverse Osmosis water. If the salinity is too low add more salt. Continue retesting and making adjustments until the desired salinity is reached. Please note, you won’t normally mix salt directly in the aquarium as this can be harmful to fish, corals and invertebrates. Instead it can be mixed in a separate container.

19. Thoroughly rinse dry substrate, like Aragonite with tap or Reverse Osmosis water to remove any debris. Live substrates should not be rinsed as this will harm the living creatures and bacteria.

20. Add substrate to the desired aquarium depth. Most shallow sand beds are 1-2” deep and most deep sand beds are 4” or more deep. Your aquarium will become cloudy for several hours, this is normal.

21. While waiting for the saltwater aquarium to clear, install the aquarium’s filtration, such as a Protein Skimmer, wet/dry filter or sponge filter. This will help the aquarium clear faster.

22. Install any other equipment like Lights, fans, chillers, UV sterilizers, reactors and controllers. You’re almost done Setting Up a Saltwater Aquarium.

23. Once the water has cleared, turn off the return pump. If the water has not cleared within 24 hours still turn off the return pump and allow the substrate to settle.

24. Begin aquascaping your aquarium with decorations or live rock. If you are using live rock leave at least 3” between the rock and front and back walls. This will make cleaning and maintenance easier. To aquascape your rock, start by placing larger, heavier, more sturdy pieces on the sand. Then add medium size pieces to create arches, caves, bridges and other interesting structures. Then use small pieces to fill in any gaps or to make your rock more secure. It is important that the rock does not shift, as this can create a rock slide, which could crack your aquarium’s glass. The average aquarium requires approximately .75 to 1.25 lbs of live rock per gallon of aquarium water.

25. Restart the return pump.

26. Place Powerheads in the aquarium and adjust until there are little or no dead spots in the aquarium. This may take some practice and adjustment as time goes on. To maximize flow place the powerheads near the surface of the water.

27. At this point your Saltwater Fish Tank Setup should be fully functional and you can run the light for eight to twelve hours per day. It is best to place your light on a timer to keep a consistent photoperiod.

28. After a few days test your water for Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate. You should also start to see a brown diatom bloom at this time. This is normal and should go away on its own within a week. If the diatoms persist, brush them off the rocks and glass with your hand or algae pad.

29. Once ammonia and nitrite have reached 0 and nitrate is below 20ppm. Wait three days and retest. If ammonia and nitrite are still below 0 and nitrate is still below 20ppm, it may be time to add your first fish.

30. Recheck your aquarium’s pH, temperature and salinity to make sure they are within an acceptable range. An appropriate pH is between 8.0 and 8.4. Make adjustments as necessary.

Coralife Lights is a manufacturer of aquarium lights and is partnered with Oceanic. You may be familiar with their popular aquarium products including the Biocube that features Coralife’s power compact or HQI metal halide lights. Coralife is known for making several different lighting types including power compact, T5, metal halide and LED moonlights. They also have several options to choose from within each lighting category. This article will discuss the many Coralife Aqualight fixtures, but you may also find our Fish Tank Lighting Guide helpful for selecting your aquarium light fixture.

Power Compact Coralife Lights

The Power Compact Coralife Aqualight is probably the most popular saltwater aquarium light produced to date. It features the choice between single or dual bulbs and comes with 50/50 bulbs or one actinic and one daylight bulb. The replacement bulbs for these fixtures are either 65 watt straight pin bulbs or 96 watt square pin bulbs. The 65 watt bulbs are used in 24 inch and 48 inch fixtures, whereas the 96 watt bulbs are used in the 36 inch and 72 inch fixtures. Two other popular Coralife lights include the Coralife Mini Aqualight which is perfect for refugiums and the 96 watt Coralife Power Quad that is ideal for a standard ten gallon aquarium. Most Coralife lights include built in fans and acrylic lenses. Some fixtures come with lunar aqualights feature for nighttime viewing.

T5 Coralife Lights

After power compact came the T5 Coralife Light. This light fixture is ideal for keeping a variety of corals and should be purchased instead of the power compact light. It is more intense and requires less power to run. T5 bulbs only need to be replaced once per year, whereas power compact bulbs should be replaced every six months. These lights also feature one actinic and one daylight bulb for enhanced coral coloration.

Coralife Lights also makes an HQI Metal Halide fixture. This is ideal for reef aquariums that require more light or are taller than 24 inches. These fixtures are available with 150 watt or 250 double ended 10,000K metal halide bulbs. You will notice that most of the Metal Halide Aqualight fixtures come with T5 Lighting or Power Compact lights for actinic supplements. This allows you to create a dawn dusk effect while still enjoying the shimmer that metal halide produces. Coralife Lights are well built and will last for many years, so feel confident when you make your purchase. You can save up to 30% by shopping online versus buying at your local fish store. You can also pick up some of your other saltwater aquarium necessities at a discount.

Aquarium Coral Types

Have you thought about keeping corals, but just needed some basic information to get you going? Given the proper environment, most hobbyists find that some corals are actually much easier to keep than fish. Corals can be classified into four categories.

Soft Coral

Soft Coral are generally the easiest variety of coral for beginner hobbyist to keep. Mushrooms, Zoanthid Polyps, Leathers and Star Polyps make excellent first corals. Most can be maintained under Standard Fluorescent and Power Compact lighting. Although not ideal, most soft corals can tolerate nitrate levels up to 50ppm. Soft corals are known for their fleshy skin and if the coral dies it would leave no skeleton behind. Most hobbyists find that soft corals grow rapidly and add some extra movement in the tank.

LPS Coral

LPS Coral, also known as Large Polyp Stony or Large Polyp Scleractinia Corals, are the next level of coral keeping and are less tolerant of nitrates above 30ppm. Most also require more intense lighting, like Power Compact, T5 or Metal Halide. Beginner LPS coral include Frogspawns, Hammers, Torches and Brains. For the beginner coral keeper it can be hard to differentiate soft corals from LPS corals. Although both have fleshy tissue, when LPS corals die they leave behind a stony skeleton. Of the four varieties of corals, LPS are generally the slowest growing, but are desired for their waving polyps and interesting color varieties.

SPS Coral

SPS Coral are also known as Small Polyp Stony or Small Polyp Scleractinia Corals and are considered the most difficult corals to maintain. SPS corals are not tolerant of nitrates above 10ppm and require more intense lighting like T5 or Metal Halide. Most aquarists struggle to maintain coral colors under Power Compact and VHO lighting. SPS Corals also prefer stronger water movement than LPS and Soft Corals. Hobbyists planning to keep SPS Corals will also need to add Calcium and Alkalinity Supplements to maintain ideal levels. Small Polyp Stony Corals are easy to identify because most look like “Tree Branches.” If you look closely, SPS Corals contain a variety of small polyps all along the skeleton. Popular SPS corals include Acropora and Montipora. Most novice hobbyists find these corals unappealing at first because they provide little or no movement in the water column, but they make up for it in their wide array of bright colors and growth patterns. SPS Corals do not make good starter corals and more research should be done if you plan to keep SPS Corals, as this article is only a general overview of the different coral types.

Non-Photosynthetic Coral

The fourth type is Non-Photosynthetic Corals and Gorgonians. This particular classification includes Carnations (soft coral), Sun Coral (LPS coral), Firecracker Coral (LPS coral), Gorgonians and Sea Fans. Most hobbyists find all but the Sun and Firecracker Coral particularly challenging, as they require feeding to maintain life. Carnations and Sea Fans should only be attempted by expert hobbyists as they require routine feedings of phytoplankton, zooplankton, Cyclop-eeze and other micro fauna. Other corals that should be avoided by beginner hobbyists are Flower Pot (LPS) and Elegance (LPS) as they have dismal survival rates in captivity and require an established aquarium for the best chance of survival.

Most hobbyists will be rewarded by keeping soft and LPS Corals as they provide a variety of colors, shapes and movement. These corals are generally easy to keep in comparison to SPS Corals, which require more intense lighting, calcium and alkalinity supplements and systems low in nitrate. Beginner hobbyists should remember to avoid Carnations, Gorgonians, Flower Pots and Elegance Corals as they are extremely difficult to maintain.

Do you need an aquarium chiller? Depending on the region and reef type, the ocean’s surface temperature can vary from 70 to 90 degrees. Also remember that saltwater fish are collected at different depths in the ocean, the deeper the water the cooler the temperature. In the end, most reef specimens collected will acclimate to a reasonably maintained aquarium temperature. The most important thing is to keep your temperature consistent. The temperature can rise when the lights turn on, as well as when the indoor house temperature changes. Fans and Chillers are some of the most popular cooling devices. Temperature changes can also happen when the lights turn off, or the room becomes cooler. Heaters combined with a temperature controller are the most popular forms of heating a fish tank.

Selecting An Aquarium Chiller

Although some species of deepwater fish and corals prefer a cooler temperature around 65 degrees and need an aquarium chiller, most specimens available for the hobby can be kept in warmer temperatures. As you have probably found, there is no “Best Anything” in the aquarium hobby, however, it is generally safe to maintain a saltwater aquarium temperature between 74 degrees and 82 degrees with most hobbyists aiming for 78 degrees. This is not to say that 78 degrees is the best, but it works for most aquarists.

To help reduce temperature fluctuations you may need an aquarium chiller. When selecting an aquarium chiller you need to decide if you need an inline or coil chiller. A coil chiller has an adapter which can be placed in the aquarium sump and no other attachments are required. Whereas, an inline aquarium chiller must be plumbed inline and requires a pump to push water through it.

Aquarium Chiller Tips

Another consider is what HP Chiller you will need. This will be determined by the saltwater aquarium size and how warm the fish tank normally gets. Generally the larger the aquarium, the more HP is required. Follow the manufactures guidelines as they will make different size recommendations from brand to brand.

Always remember to place your aquarium chiller outside of the fish tank stand. Otherwise the heat created by the chiller will heat up your aquarium stand and actually increase the temperature of the water. Then the cabinet will become so warm that the chiller will actually fail. Because an aquarium chiller is a substantial investment you will want to take of it. To find the best deals on aquarium chillers, shop online. Very few fish specialty stores will have chillers on hand because of their cost.

About Aquarium Additives

Additives are perhaps the most confusing part of the saltwater hobby. When you walk into a fish specialty store there are often rows of pretty looking bottles that just scream “Buy Me!” So you take a closer look, but there seems to be a supplement for everything. Do I need to use additives, and if so, what additives should I be using?

No, you don’t need to use additives and other supplements to have a successful reef aquarium. Then why do they sell additives? To help make your aquarium the best that it can be. With additives you don’t always get measurable results, some will have positive effects and some can even have negative effects on your aquarium. When selecting an additive you generally get what you pay for! Low quality additives will have little or no positive effects on your aquarium. Additives will have many different names, do you best to figure out which category they fall under.

Popular Aquarium Supplements

A Coral Calcium Supplement should be added by aquarists keeping a number of stony corals. Calcium is used by corals to grow. Calcium additives come in easy to use liquid bottles and dry mixes. Most Calcium additives contain Calcium Chloride and other agents to make the supplement more ionically balanced. For most hobbyists calcium levels can be maintained by routine water changes. Be sure to have a Calcium Test Kit.

Alkalinity should be added by hobbyists maintaining a number of stony and soft corals. Alkalinity is used by corals to grow. Alkalinity additives come in easy to use liquid bottles and dry powders. Most Alkalinity additives contain Soda Ash or Sodium Bicarbonate and other agents to make the supplement more ionically balanced. Two Part bottles of calcium and alkalinity are typically sold together and are designed to be ionically balanced. If you dose liquid calcium and alkalinity, add them at separate times to prevent them from calcifying in the water. Usually ten minutes apart is enough. Most Alkalinity additives also act as a buffer, and like all buffers they will only temporarily raise pH. Be sure to have an Alkalinity Test Kit.

Stontium, Molybdenum and Iodine. These supplements are present in acceptable levels in most salt mixes and don’t need to be dosed. Iodine should only be used by the advanced aquarist with the proper Iodine Test Kit because it is easily overdosed.

Trace Elements and Amino Acids. These products are often marketed to enhance coral growth and coral color. Be careful when purchasing these products, as you get what you pay for. These products do work for most advanced hobbyists with well established reefs, but the average hobbyist will see little or no visible results.

Aquarium Food Additives

Phytoplankton and Other Coral Foods. For the average hobbyist, phytoplankton will increase coral polyp extension and greatly increase algae growth. Advanced hobbyists keeping carnations, sun polyps and gorgonians can use Phytoplankton to feed these corals. Another excellent coral food is Cyclop-eeze. You will see the immediate benefit of adding Cyclop-eeze into your aquarium as corals will extend their polyps to feed and fish will go into a frenzy.

Fish Vitamins and Supplements are definitely worthwhile. Look for supplements containing Omega Fatty Acids, Vitamin C, Garlic and Spirulina. These simple food additives will greatly boost your fish’s immune system and ability to fight off disease. It will also enhance the color and vibrance of most fish.

As a final note, when purchasing an additive, read the label and determine if the product sounds too good to be true. There are many worthwhile additives and supplements available, but remember to purchase only high quality additives as they will have the greatest positive effect on your aquarium. Avoid additives with questionable packaging or that leak. If you were to purchase two additives, select a Coral Food Supplement and Fish Vitamin as it will have the greatest immediate effect on your fish tank.

Most saltwater aquariums will require an aquarium heater to maintain an water temperature. An appropriate temperature for most saltwater fish, corals and invertebrates is between 74 and 82 degrees with most hobbyists aiming for 78 degrees.

Aquarium Heater Types

Although there are many types of heaters, a submersible Titanium Heater is the most appropriate for saltwater aquariums. Unlike Glass Heaters they are difficult to break and won’t will release contaminants into the water if cracked. Titanium and steel heaters are nearly unbreakable. This can be particularly important in the event of a live rock slide or if you plan to keep large aggressive fish.

To determine the appropriate size heater for your aquarium, start by calculating your aquarium’s water volume. Remember to include water in the Sump, reactors and plumbing. Then, multiply the total water volume by five. For example, a 50 gallon aquarium will require a 250 watt aquarium heater. This is a general rule of thumb and other aspects should be taken into consideration such as climate, aquarium location and additional heat sources.

Aquarium Heater Temperature

After an appropriate temperature has been reached, it is crucial to maintain a constant temperature with as little fluctuation as possible. Hobbyists located in climates with varying outside temperatures should be prepared with a both large heater and fans or a Chiller.

One of the leading causes of heater malfunctions is the built in thermostat. Never trust the built in thermostat as they have been known to fail in the on position. Some hobbyists have the opinion that two smaller aquarium heaters is better than using one large heater. Since many aquarists push the upper temperatures with Metal Halide Lighting Systems and large pumps, even a small heater can produce enough heat to cook our tanks if stuck in the on position. Also, having two heaters doubles your risk of a heater malfunction.

It is important to use an additional temperature controller with any aquarium heater. Typically you set the built in thermostat slightly above what the temperature controller is set to. If for some reason the temperature controller malfunctions or is set incorrectly, the built in thermostat will turn it off. For example, set the aquarium heater to 79 degree and the temperature controller to 78 degrees.

Aquarists have two temperature control options. A standard temperature controller can control heaters, fans and chillers. The second option is to purchase an Aquarium Controller to that can control temperature, lights and pumps.

Remember to select a high quality titanium heater or steel heater for your aquarium. When determining the appropriate aquarium heater size, remember to consider factors such as climate, aquarium location and additional heat sources. Rather than using two small heaters, purchase a temperature controller to maintain a constant temperature and reduce the risk of aquarium disaster.

Below are some general guidelines for saltwater aquarium water testing. Please note these are only a general guidelines and not absolutes. Every aquarium is different and there are always exceptions to the rule.

Basic Aquarium Water Testing

Ammonia (NH3 – toxic): Zero (undetectable)

Nitrite (NO2 – non-toxic): Zero (undetectable)

Nitrate (NO3 – toxic): Zero (undetectable) is ideal, but less than 20ppm is generally acceptable.

pH: 8.0 to 8.4 is generally acceptable. pH will fluctuate based on carbon dioxide and oxygen levels in your home and aquarium. pH will always be lower in the morning and higher in the evening, so remember to do aquarium water testing at the same time of the day. Carbon dioxide causes pH to fall and oxygen causes pH to rise.

Temperature: 74 to 82 degrees is generally acceptable with average aquarist aiming for 78 degrees. Once the temperature is in the appropriate range, the next step is to maintain a stable temperature with as little fluctuations as possible. A combination of Fans, Chillers and Heaters can be used to control aquarium temperature.

Salinity: Specific Gravity 1.020 to 1.026 is generally acceptable with the average reef hobbyist targeting 1.024 to 1.025. Once the salinity is in the appropriate range, the next step is to maintain a stable salinity with only minor fluctuations. An auto-top device can be used to reduce salinity swings due to evaporation. Remember to use a calibrated Refractometer for accurate results.

Advanced Aquarium Water Testing

Phosphate Test Kit: Zero (undetectable) is ideal. A saltwater fish tank with elevated phosphates is usually caused by overfeeding or using tap water rather than Reverse Osmosis water. Please note, a saltwater aquarium with lots of algae growth can have zero phosphates, it’s just that the phosphate is being absorbed immediate by the algae.

Calcium: 370 to 450ppm is generally acceptable. For most aquarists keeping soft corals and some LPS corals, weekly water changes is enough to maintain calcium. At 370ppm scientists believe that coral growth is maximized and any greater amount will have no effect on enhancing coral growth. It is more important to maintain a stable calcium level rather than an elevated calcium level.

Alkalinity: 2.5 to 4.3 meq/L or 7 to 12 dKH. (meq/L can be converted to dKH by multiplying meq/L by 2.8) The ocean has an alkalinity of approximately 7 dKH, but most home aquariums are maintained at elevated levels to help promote coraline algae. Some research shows that some SPS corals like Acropora may prefer an alkalinity closer to natural seawater, while soft corals may prefer a higher alkalinity near 12 dKH. While this research is debatable, most hobbyists can agree that it is important to maintain a stable alkalinity level.

Magnesium: 1350ppm is generally ideal. Sometimes hobbyists find it difficult to maintain balanced levels of Calcium and Alkalinity because they need to increase Magnesium.

These are only general guidelines! Every saltwater aquarium is different and you may find great success and failure while maintaining these water parameters. In general, most salt mixes will mix to appropriate levels, but a few adjustments may be required. Remember to use high quality aquarium test kits. Using test kits from most general pet stores will provide you with inaccurate results.

You just bought your first fish or coral and need to acclimate it to your saltwater aquarium or quarantine tank. Please remember that less than a month ago your fish may have been swimming in the ocean. Then a diver captured it and spent the next week acclimating it to changes in water pressure to prevent toxic shock. Then the fish was loaded on a boat and brought to the collection facility. There it is placed in a holding tank. When a wholesaler places an order, the fish is then packaged in a bag and shipped across the ocean. There it sits at the wholesaler until a smaller wholesaler or retailer places an order and the fish is bagged and shipped across the country. Eventually the fish arrives at your local fish store and in your tank. This is quite a journey and it is amazing that any fish survives. Please take the time to properly acclimate your new fish to prevent stress.

Drip Acclimation

1. You will need Airline Hose and a Ball Valve. These materials can be purchased separately or as an Acclimation Kit.

2. Turn off your aquarium lights for the rest of the day. This will reduce the stress of your new fish and make your current livestock less aggressive towards the new fish.

3. Float your new fish or coral for at least 10 minutes to acclimate the fish to your aquarium’s water temperature. An appropriate temperature is 74-82 degrees.

4. Carefully cut open the bag and pour the fish into a small container. If you are rough with the fish, it is more likely to become stressed and die or develop disease.

5. Take the airline hose and attach it to a ball valve so you can control the water flow.

6. Start a siphon so that water drips into the bucket, it should be about 1 drop per second. This method is best used for sensitive fish, coral, clams and other invertebrates.

7. Continue to drip for one to two hours and until the salinity and pH in the container matches the salinity and pH in your aquarium.

8. Drain out some of the water and catch the fish in a net and place it into the aquarium. Do not add any of the acclimation water back into the aquarium, as it may contain pests or parasites from the fish store. Some hobbyists prefer to hand catch their fish, but some fish, like the lionfish are venomous and should not be hand caught.

Scoop Fish Acclimation

1. Turn off your aquarium lights for the rest of the day. This will reduce the stress of your new fish and make your current livestock less aggressive towards the new fish.

2. Float your new fish or coral for at least 10 minutes to acclimate the fish to your aquarium’s water temperature. An appropriate temperature is 76-84 degrees.

3. Carefully open cut open the bag and pour the fish into a small container. If you are rough with the fish, it is more likely to become stressed and die or show disease.

4. Take approximately one cup of your aquarium water and add it into the bucket.

5. Wait 10-15 minutes and remove 1 cup of water from the acclimation container and replace it with 1 cup of aquarium water.

6. Repeat this step every 10-15 minutes for at least one hour and until the salinity and pH in the container matches the salinity and pH in your aquarium.

7. Drain out some of the water and catch the fish in a net and place it into the aquarium. Do not add any of the acclimation water back into the aquarium, as it may contain pests or parasites from the fish store. Some hobbyists prefer to hand catch their fish, but fish like lionfish are venomous and should not be hand caught.

Coral Acclimation

Many fish stores and coral owners do not even know that they have pests or parasites. If you have not been treating your corals, you are most likely infected with flatworms or something worse. Treating with ReVive Coral Cleaner and Tropic Marin Pro Coral Cure can help prevent red flatworms, brown planaria, acropora eating flatworms, zoanthid eating nudibranchs, little red bugs, sundial snails, sea spiders and montipora eating nudibranchs.

Aquarium UV Sterilizer

Many hobbyists get tricked into buying a UV Sterilizer because the fish store said they need it to keep a Blue Hippo Tang. Although a Fish UV Sterilizer will certainly help prevent and reduce the spread of disease, it will not make up for poor water quality and aquarium filtration. A UV Sterilizer is not required for a saltwater aquarium, but many hobbyists agree that it can reduce algae growth, increase water clarity and reduce disease outbreaks.

An Aquarium UV Sterilizer works by passing water over an ultraviolet lamp housed in a quartz sleeve. When water passes through the UV Sterilizer it kills or damages free swimming parasites and other algae spores. These micro organisms are no longer a threat to your aquarium fish.

Selecting A Fish Tank UV Sterilizer

When selecting a Saltwater Fish UV Sterilizer follow the manufacturer’s instructions for bacteria and parasite control. Select a UV Sterilizer large enough for your aquarium and a Pump that will provide the optimal flow for bacteria or parasite control. You can’t over sterilize, but you can pass water over the bulb too quickly! Also purchasing a UV Sterilizer with a Wiper Blade will make maintenance easy, as it can be difficult to clean the quartz sleeve. Like all light bulbs, UV Sterilizer Bulbs will need to be replaced and lose their intensity over time. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for bulb replacement; you should always replace the bulb before it burns out. If you are considering the purchase of a used UV Sterilizer, remember to ask when the last time the bulb was changed.

A UV Sterilizer is not necessary on a saltwater aquarium, but it can reduce algae growth and disease. An Aquarium UV Sterilizer is a good extra piece of equipment to have, but is no substitute for proper filtration and good aquarium husbandry.